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Bulgarian white stars - Dimyat, Misket and Tamyanka

06.08.2024
Autor: Seewines

It is true that Bulgaria has a modest stock of indigenous varieties compared to, say, Italy, but our varieties have a distinctiveness and character worth being proud of. Among the reds, we can't help but note the satiny Gamza with the finesse of a good Pinot Noir when it's from a good vintage, or the expressive nature of Mavruda with powerful tannins, lots of fruit and cardamom-peppery notes? Simply magnificent! What about the "chappy" Melnik (Broad Melnik Vine), which is perhaps the most interesting but also the most difficult to grow and vinify among our local red stars...
Rubin, Evmolpia, Melnik 55 (Early Melnik Vine), Melnik 1300, Thracian Glory and many other hybrid varieties are also now becoming established and have excellent qualities, but are again consolidating the image of Bulgaria as a country producing mainly red wines.
But what is happening to the production of white wines? It's fine, it's even rising significantly following the trends that market demand is outlining. And do we have anything to match our wonderful reds? Yes, it turns out that we have very good white varieties to produce quality wines. Modern Bulgarian wineries have everything they need and even in the warmer areas of southern Bulgaria some exciting wines are being made from local white varieties.
Looking at the geography of Bulgaria, however, the North is considered to be better suited to growing and producing white varieties (and more aromatic ones in general). The Black Sea region is particularly favourable - both the South and the North. This is where 30% of all white vineyards in the country are located. The region is characterised by long and mild autumns, which are favourable conditions for accumulating sugars and producing fine white wine (53% of all white wine varieties are concentrated in the region). The most significant from a local and patriotic point of view here is the Dimyat variety.

 Dimyat

Dimyat is an extremely old indigenous Bulgarian wine variety. But it is also a Balkan variety, as it is also grown in Serbia, Macedonia, Romania, Greece, Turkey and even Russia. In our western neighbours it is called Smederevka.
As already mentioned, in Bulgaria it is widespread along the Black Sea coast and in the area around Shumen.
The wines from Dimyat are not very aromatic, but they are very fresh, fruity, with a natural vanilla accent and hints of ripe yellow pear. This characteristic, restrained profile and its good acids automatically make it an excellent wine material for high quality brandies, and there are already attempts at elegant dessert wines. We are yet to see more interesting results with Smoke. Definitely our most potential indigenous varietal, which we are following with joy and pleasure!

 

 

 Red Misket
 

With the Red (also Karlovski) Miscanthus we immediately head to the Rose Valley, where is the natural habitat of this airy Bulgarian white variety. It is an old variety, widespread in the sub-Balkan region, grown mainly on hilly terrain in the Rose Valley. It is believed that the variety is a natural cross of Riesling and Dimat, but even so, it has been living an independent life for centuries. The nose of Karlovský misket wine is always slightly floral, pleasant and with fresh herbal nuances, and after ageing for a year or two after the vintage, one can already detect characteristic notes of wax, quince and honey.
And yet how come we are talking about a white wine from a variety called Red Miscanthus? The grapes of this variety are considered white, but the grapes have a beautiful violet pigmentation and appear deep pink. The grapes are small and have a pinkish-red to violet colour. Despite this colouring, the variety produces fantastic, slightly herbal, slightly spicy and discreetly aromatic white wines with a subtle greenish glare in the glass. Incredibly suitable for an aperitif on hot summer afternoons!

 

Tamyanka

Last, but not least and sales (mostly) ranks Miss Tamyanka. The variety takes us to southern Bulgaria, where it feels good and has been grown for ... a few years or maybe centuries?
There's a confusion about Tamianka, that it's actually Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, or small-grained white Muscat. However, this has recently been challenged and it has been proven that Tamiana as a distinct variety has been around for centuries. It is an ancient and proven indigenous variety, probably originating in Romania, where it is known as Tamayosa. But Tamyanka was also used by old winemakers as a synonym for small-grained white Muscat, and that is why many are confused. Basically, it takes an analysis of old vines to see what is Tamianca and what is Muscat.
Another indisputable fact about Tamika is that it is related to the Muscat family and therefore wines from this variety have a distinctly floral profile, excellent acids that are usually balanced by juicy fruit resembling a succulent pear or pineapple. Tamiana can be a wine with a medium, even full body, and delicate spicy notes on the finish. Development after a year or two is their optimum state, when the wine begins to take on slightly resinous notes, well described by old tasters as notes of incense.

Whichever Bulgarian wine you choose from our selection you won't go wrong, because all three of our varieties produce excellent, high quality fresh white wines that pair beautifully with the light summer appetizers that are present on every Bulgarian table!